Editor's Log 005

Young British designers took over, Dave dropped a masterpiece, and I might’ve become a full kit wanker.

Hi all,

Welcome back to the Editor’s Log, your weekly recap of everything worth knowing (and a few things that aren’t). This week was a bit insane - so much happened, and we dropped two new articles: one on the dissolution of subculture, and my review of Harris Dickinson’s ‘Urchin.’ (Spoiler alert: I loved it.) Anyways, let’s get into it.

Monday

Carhartt released their collaboration with Nicholas Daley. I don’t love it, honestly. They reuse the same tartan a lot, and it’s not a particularly nice one in my opinion. I do love the pins and Baker Boy hat, though.

London’s art market showed signs of life at Frieze, according to Artnet’s ‘Art Market Minute.’ Nice to hear, especially after so many independent galleries have closed, although I’m not sure it’ll be enough to bring London back to the top of the big leagues.

The Daily Star lettuce that outlasted Liz Truss has now been immortalised in the BFI’s national archive. (Lol.)

One of my favourite designers in the world, Aaron Esh, was appointed Chief Creative Officer of AllSaints. It makes perfect sense - at its height, AllSaints spoke to the same audience Aaron designs for now. They’re also giving him new studio space for his own brand, with his team split between both. Hopefully that helps elevate his label while breathing new life into AllSaints. I’m very, very excited.

I also watched ‘Urchin’ for the first time (yes, I rewatched it - it’s that good).

Tuesday

Another one of my favourite designers (this really was an amazing week for young British talent), Grace Wales Bonner, was appointed creative director of Hermès menswear following Véronique Nichanian’s 37-year run. She made consistently good clothes, but the collections tended to blend together - I’m hoping Grace brings her depth of research and reference to the brand and fuses it with Hermès’ timeless elegance. Also imagining a (men’s?) Birkin with British and Jamaican references… I’m so excited.

One of my favourite photographers, El Hardwick, and their partner, Orion Isaacs, were also featured in Dazed for their forthcoming photobook t-fags. Super interesting interview - read it here.

I visited the Peter Doig exhibition at the Serpentine Gallery. Really liked the work, and loved how they intertwined music throughout to make it a full experience.

In the evening, previous Ø8 interviewee and good friend of mine, M.I.C., celebrated his forthcoming EP, ‘CURSED’, with a Kindred Radio takeover. He was sick as ever, also nice to bump into Jawnino and Babydoom whenever they’re about.

Wednesday

Martine Rose (yes, ANOTHER British designer) and Nike detailed their next collaboration reworking ‘90s Arsenal. I’m not a massive football fan, but as a lifelong Arsenal and Martine Rose fan, I might have to go full kit wanker for this one.

Pitchfork also announced that they’ll be introducing reader scores next year. Makes sense - they already do reader versions of their lists, so this is just one step further. Rate Your Music already gets flack for having pretentious users, so I imagine this might just take that to new heights.

I also went to a screening of ‘The Fundamental Gilbert & George’ at the BFI. Brilliant documentary, but I know I’d despise them if I had to actually talk to them.

Thursday

We published an article on how youth culture became fluid, and why that’s not necessarily a bad thing.

Bianca Saunders’ (another British designer) collaboration with Tate finally got a wide release. I really like all of it. It’s nothing groundbreaking, just William Blake’s paintings adapted into garments, but it’s executed well. I especially love the scarf.

In the evening, I was invited to Jayahadadream’s debut project launch party. There was cake, a Q&A with DJ Semtex, and a grime set. It was all sick, though the grime set could’ve used a bit more quality control - not naming names, but there were some shit MCs.

Friday

Jayahadadream got interviewed by Dazed(!) and released her project - it’s sick.

Dave finally dropped ‘The Boy Who Played The Harp,’ his third album. Genuinely incredible. Front to back, no skips, no misses. I think a lot of people wanted more of the Split Decision vibe, but I’m more than happy with what we got. Review coming soon, maybe.

Lily Allen also released her first album in 7 years - another amazing and vulnerable project. David Harbour can literally rot in hell.

Saturday

I read Kacion Mayers’ brilliant interview with Harris Dickinson from last year, and watched two Americans react to Kano’s ‘Hoodies All Summer’ (one of my favourite albums). So funny and lovely seeing Kano get his flowers. Also, before I forget - Kano’s feature on Dave’s album is one of the best verses I’ve heard all year. Three for three in features; now I’m just praying for an album.

Sunday

The world’s first Museum of Youth Culture is set to open in Camden this December. It’s supposed to cover the last 100 years of teenage culture, I look forward to checking it out once it opens!

Here’s to another week of British excellence.

Best,

Sik

P.S. Would love to get into giving talks and to write someone’s show notes for February - so if anyone’s interested, just reply to this email or hit me up at @020sik or siknotsick@gmail.com